The hours are long. The weather is brutal. The tasks – picking apples, milking cows, pruning vineyards, cleaning barns – are laborious and monotonous. The pay is at or just above minimum wage.
kAm}@E >2?J p>6C:42?D H2?E E@ H@C< @? 2 72C>[ 244@C5:?8 E@ =@42= 72C>6CD] %@> z2AAFD[ 2 k2 9C67lQ9EEADi^^<2AAFD72C>D]4@>Q E2C86ElQ03=2?<Qm7CF:E 72C>6C :? qFCEk^2m[ D2:5 96 92D?’E 925 2 =@42= H2=< :? 7@C 2 ;@3 2AA=:42E:@? :? `d J62CD] $@[ 72C>6CD EFC? E@ :>>:8C2?ED[ H9@ 6286C=J E2<6 E96 ;@3D[ 2?5 2C6 @7E6? “4@?D4:6?E:@FD” 2?5 “AC@F5]”k^Am
A worker clears leaves from a grapevine. Not many Americans want to work on a farm, according to local farmers, so farmers turn to immigrants, who eagerly take the jobs.
Joed Viera, Buffalo News
kAm“~FC 72C> H@F=5 ?@E DFCG:G6 H:E9@FE E96>[” z2AAFD D2:5] “}@ 72C> H@F=5 DFCG:G6 H:E9@FE E96>]”k^Am
kAm%96 %CF>A 25>:?:DEC2E:@?’D :?E6?D:7:65 :>>:8C2E:@? C2:5D 2?5 2CC6DED 92G6 D92<6? E96 =@42= 28C:4F=EFC2= 4@>>F?:EJ[ H9:49 :D 56A6?56?E @? >:8C2?E =23@C] $@>6 72C> H@C<6CD 2C6 96C6 =682==J E9C@F89 2 7656C2= AC@8C2>] $@>6 2C6 ?@E] qFE 72C>6CD D2J 2== 2C6 6DD6?E:2= E@ <66A:?8 8C@46CJ DE@C6 D96=G6D DE@4<65 H:E9 =@42= >:=<[ 2AA=6D[ 4966D6 2?5 8C2A6D] (:E9@FE E96>[ >2?J =@42= 72C>D 4@F=5 ?@E 7F?4E:@?]k^Am
kAmpD &]$] x>>:8C2E:@? 2?5 rFDE@>D t?7@C46>6?E 286?ED C@2> E96 4@F?ECJ E@ 6?7@C46 !C6D:56?E %CF>A’D :>>:8C2E:@? 4C24<5@H?[ 72C>D E92E C6=J @? :>>:8C2?E =23@C 2C6 ECJ:?8 E@ <66A E96:C 9625D 5@H? E@ AC@E64E E96:C G:E2= H@C<7@C46]k^Am
kAm|62?H9:=6[ >2?J H@C<6CD 2C6 E6CC:7:65 E@ =62G6 E96:C 9@>6D 2?5 CF? :?E@ 2? xrt 286?E] x? CFC2= 4@>>F?:E:6D H:E9 @G6CH96=>:?8=J H9:E6 A@AF=2E:@?D[ >:8C2?E H@C<6CD D2J E96J ?@ =@?86C 766= 4@>7@CE23=6 8@:?8 E@ (2=>2CE] s6=:G6CJ D6CG:46D 3C:?8 8C@46C:6D E@ E96:C 9@>6D[ H9:49 2C6 @7E6? @? E96:C 6>A=@J6CD’ 72C>D]k^Am
kAm“(6’C6 27C2:5 E@ D9@H @FC 7246D[” 2? :>>:8C2?E 72C> H@C<6C E@=5 %96 qF772=@ }6HD]k^Am
kAm“%96C6’D >@C6 @7 2 9F?<6C\5@H? >6?E2=:EJ[” D2:5 2 }:282C2 r@F?EJ 52:CJ 72C>6C H9@ C6BF6DE65 9:D ?2>6 36 H:E996=5 @FE @7 762C E92E 9:D 72C> H@F=5 36 E2C86E65 7@C 2? :>>:8C2E:@? C2:5] “z66A J@FCD6=7 @? E96 72C> 2?5 2E E96 9@FD6 2?5 @77 E96 C@25D]”k^Am
An aerial view of Becker Farms in Gasport.
Joed Viera/Buffalo News
kAm(:E9:? 2 A6C:@5 @7 52JD[ %CF>A C646?E=J A2FD65 xrt C2:5D 2?5 2CC6DED 2E 72C>D[ >62E\A24<:?8 A=2?ED[ 9@E6=D 2?5 C6DE2FC2?ED[ E96? 23CFAE=J C6G6CD65 4@FCD6 2?5 =:7E65 E9@D6 C6DEC:4E:@?D]k^Am
kAm“%96 25>:?:DEC2E:@?’D xrt C2:5D[ 4@?E:?F65 E9C62ED 2?5 A@=:4J 7=:A\7=@AD 92G6 4C62E65 762C 2?5 :?DE23:=:EJ 24C@DD E96 D64E@C[” D2:5 $E2E6 $6?] |:496==6 w:?496J[ H9@ 492:CD E96 $E2E6 $6?2E6’D p8C:4F=EFC6 r@>>:EE66[ :? 2 DE2E6>6?E] “%9:D F?46CE2:?EJ :D ?@E @?=J 5:DCFAE:?8 E96 =23@C >2C<6E – :E’D AFEE:?8 E96 D64FC:EJ @7 @FC 7@@5 DFAA=J 2E C:D<] %96 DEC6?8E9 2?5 D276EJ @7 @FC 7@@5 DJDE6> 56A6?5 @? 3@E9 72C>6CD 2?5 72C> H@C<6CD[ 2?5 H6 42??@E 4@?E:?F6 E9:D C96E@C:4 @C E96D6 52>28:?8 24E:@?D]”k^Am
kAm%96 }6H *@C< %:>6D 92D C6A@CE65 5:D28C66>6?E H:E9:? E96 %CF>A 25>:?:DEC2E:@? 23@FE 72C> H@C<6CD] %96 %:>6D D2:5 E@A (9:E6 w@FD6 @77:4:2=D H6C6 42F89E @77 8F2C5 H96? p8C:4F=EFC6 $64C6E2CJ qC@@<6 #@==:?D AFD965 %CF>A E@ >2<6 2? 6I46AE:@? 7@C 72C> H@C<6CD] |2?J @7 %CF>A’D E@A 2:56D[ A2CE:4F=2C=J $E6A96? |:==6C[ 9:D 56AFEJ 49:67 @7 DE277[ 92G6 FC865 2 92C5\=:?6 2AAC@249[ E2C86E:?8 2== :>>:8C2?ED H:E9@FE =682= DE2EFD E@ 7F=7:== E96 AC6D:56?E’D AC@>:D6 @7 E96 3:886DE 56A@CE2E:@? 42>A2:8? :? p>6C:42? 9:DE@CJ]k^Am
kAm“%96 C62=:EJ :D E92E >2?J @7 E96 A6@A=6 H@C<:?8 @? @FC 72C>D E@52J 2C6 92C5H@C<:?8 :?5:G:5F2=D H9@ 42>6 96C6 D:>A=J D66<:?8 E96 @AA@CEF?:EJ E@ 62C? 2? 9@?6DE =:G:?8[” D2:5 $E2E6 $6?] v6@C86 q@CC6==@[ 2 #6AF3=:42? @? E96 $6?2E6 p8C:4F=EFC6 r@>>:EE66] “qFE H6 42??@E :8?@C6 E96 724E E92E 2 3C@<6? :>>:8C2E:@? DJDE6> 92D =67E 3@E9 E96D6 :?5:G:5F2=D 2?5 E96 72C>6CD H9@ C6=J @? E96> :? 2? :>A@DD:3=6 D:EF2E:@?]”k^Am
kAmpE k2 9C67lQ9EEADi^^HHH]364<6C72C>D]4@>Q E2C86ElQ03=2?<Qmq64<6C u2C>Dk^2m[ @H?6C ~D42C ':K42CC2 D2:5 E92E 96 766=D 2D E9@F89 96 4@F=5 36 A:4<65 FA 3J xrt] %9@F89 96 92D =:G65 :? v2DA@CE 7@C 564256D 2?5 @H?D 2 DF446DD7F= 72C>[ H:?6CJ 2?5 C68:@?2= 28C:E@FC:D> 56DE:?2E:@?[ 96 =@@<D 5:776C6?E 7C@> >@DE @7 9:D }:282C2 r@F?EJ ?6:893@CD] w6 H2D 3@C? 2?5 C2:D65 :? !6CF]k^Am
Oscar Vizcarra, owner of Becker Farms, checks a grapevine on his property in Gasport. Though he has lived in Gasport for decades and owns a successful farm, he looks different from most of his neighbors: He was born and raised in Peru.
Joed Viera, Buffalo News
kAm“tG6CJ@?6 E92E :D :? E96 28C:4F=EFC2= 3FD:?6DD H9@ =@@<D 5:776C6?E – |6I:42?[ !6CFG:2?[ t4F25@C:2?[ vF2E6>2=2?[ J@F <?@H[ 3C@H?[” ':K42CC2 D2:5] “%96J’C6 DF3;64E E@ E9:D]”k^Am
k9am‘{:G:?8 :? 2 4@?DE2?E DE2E6 @7 762C’k^9am
kAm~? |2J a[ :>>:8C2E:@? @77:46CD k2 9C67lQ9EEADi^^HHH]:E9242]4@>^?6HD^C68:@?2=0?6HD^7656C2=\286?ED\56E2:?\72C>H@C<6CD\@?\3FD\E@\H@C<\F?:@?\D2JD\:>>:8C2?E\@C82?:K6CD\E2C86E65^2CE:4=60hchbdhcf\beb4\cf4g\h7_b\d6_674g2gd_`]9E>=Q E2C86ElQ03=2?<QmDE@AA65 2 3FD @7 72C> H@C<6CDk^2m 9625:?8 E@ 2? ~C=62?D r@F?EJ 72C>]k^Am
kAmxrt 56E2:?65 `c H@C<6CD H9:=6 E96J H6C6 @? E96:C H2J E@ H@C< 2E {J?\tEE6 U2>Aj $@?D 72C>] $:I @7 E96 H@C<6CD H6C6 56A@CE65[ 244@C5:?8 E@ &?:E65 u2C> (@C<6CD[ 2 r2=:7@C?:2\32D65 =23@C 8C@FA E92E 92D 366? 96=A:?8 E@ F?:@?:K6 H@C<6CD @? D@>6 =@42= 72C>D[ :?4=F5:?8 {J?\tEE6 U2>Aj $@?D] u@FC @7 E96 H@C<6CD 92G6 366? C6=62D65 @? 3@?5] %96 @E96C 7@FC H@C<6CD 2C6 2H2:E:?8 E96:C 3@?5 962C:?8[ D2:5 pC>2?5@ t=6?6D[ E96 &u(’D D64C6E2CJ EC62DFC6C] W{J?\tEE6 U2>Aj $@?D 564=:?65 %96 }6HD’ C6BF6DE 7@C 4@>>6?E]Xk^Am
kAm“xE’D ;FDE 4C62E65 2 9F86 2>@F?E @7 762C E9C@F89@FE E96 4@>>F?:EJ[” t=6?6D D2:5] “xE’D ;FDE =:<6 =:G:?8 :? 2 4@?DE2?E DE2E6 @7 762C]”k^Am
kA 4=2DDlQE?4>D\:?=:?6\=:?<Qmk2 9C67lQ9EEADi^^3F772=@?6HD]4@>^E?4>D^2DD6E^65:E@C:2=^bgh6eb7d\`b57\c54`\hed3\54f625h67`7aQmu@C6:8? DEF56?ED H:? C6AC:6G6 27E6C V2 4@FA=6 @7 H66<D @7 E6CC@C 2?5 762C 2?5 EFC>@:=Vk^2mk^Am
kAmpE 9:D 7CF:E 72C> :? qFCE[ z2AAFD 6>A=@JD `c :>>:8C2?E =23@C6CD 7C@> y2>2:42 E9C@F89 E96 7656C2= w\ap AC@8C2>] %96 wap AC@8C2> 6?23=6D 28C:4F=EFC2= H@C<6CD E@ DA6?5 `_ >@?E9D 6249 J62C =682==J H@C<:?8 @? p>6C:42? 72C>D] uCF:E 72C>D @7E6? FD6 D62D@?2= w\ap =23@C[ H9:=6 72C>D E92E C6BF:C6 J62C\C@F?5 H@C<[ DF49 2D 52:CJ 72C>D[ 2C6 >@C6 =:<6=J E@ 6>A=@J F?5@4F>6?E65 H@C<6CD]k^Am
kAm“x 42? F?56CDE2?5 E96> 56A@CE:?8 4C@@<D[” z2AAFD D2:5] “x 5@?’E F?56CDE2?5 E96> 4@>:?8 27E6C =@?8E:>6 H@C<6CD H9@ 92G6 366? 96C6 7@C J62CD 2?5 J62CD H@C<:?8 @? 72C>D 2?5 92CG6DE:?8 7@@5 2?5 E2<:?8 42C6 @7 @C492C5D @C 2?:>2=D] %96J’C6 ?@E 4C@@<D] %96J’C6 8@@5 A6@A=6 2?5 E96J’C6 ;FDE =@@<:?8 7@C 2 A=246 E@ >2<6 D@>6 >@?6J 7@C E96:C 72>:=:6D]”k^Am
A worker prunes a rosebush.
Joed Viera/Buffalo News
kAmpE =62DE edT @7 E96 =23@C A6C7@C>65 @? 2 }:282C2 r@F?EJ 52:CJ 72C> :D 5@?6 3J |6I:42? :>>:8C2?ED] %96J 4@>6 E@ E96 72C> H:E9 H@C<:?8 A2A6CD[ D2:5 E96 72C> @H?6C[ “3FE H6 5@?’E <?@H :7 :E’D 2== A6C764E]” w6 :D “C62D@?23=J 4@?46C?65” 23@FE 2 C2:5 2E 9:D 72C>]k^Am
kAm“%96J’C6 6IEC2@C5:?2C:=J 6DD6?E:2= E@ @FC @A6C2E:@?[” D2:5 E96 52:CJ 72C>6C] “&?=6DD H6 962G:=J :?G6DE65 :? C@3@E:4D 2?5 G6CJ =2C86 6BF:A>6?E[ H6 C:89E ?@H 4@F=5 ?@E 7F?4E:@? H:E9@FE E96>]”k^Am
kA 4=2DDlQE?4>D\:?=:?6\=:?<Qmk2 9C67lQ9EEADi^^3F772=@?6HD]4@>^E?4>D^2DD6E^65:E@C:2=^`44_6g64\77fd\``67\34gc\cfab_7df523fQm%CF>A 3@C56C 4K2C E@ }* @? :>>:8C2E:@?i Vv6E @FE @7 E96 H2JVk^2mk^Am
kAmq6EH66? c_T 2?5 d_T @7 E96 DE2E6’D H@C<7@C46 7@C 72C>D[ C6DE2FC2?ED[ 4@?DECF4E:@? 2?5 52J 42C6 =24<D AC@A6C 5@4F>6?E2E:@?[ 244@C5:?8 E@ 6DE:>2E6D 3J #:492C5 q2==[ DE2E6 4@>>:DD:@?6C @7 p8C:4F=EFC6 2?5 |2C<6ED]k^Am
kAm“(6 5@ ?665 2? 2?DH6C 96C6[” q2== D2:5 :? y2?F2CJ 5FC:?8 2 DE2E6 3F586E 962C:?8 :? p=32?J] “(6 5@ ?665 E@ 92G6 2 =682= H@C<7@C46] p8C:4F=EFC6 H2?ED @?6]”k^Am
kAmx7 xrt 6>AE:6D =@42= 72C>D @7 >:8C2?E =23@C – FAC@@E:?8 A6@A=6 H9@ 92G6 DA6?E E96:C =:G6D 7665:?8 p>6C:42?D[ 2?5 H9@ 92G6 @7E6? DE2CE65 72>:=:6D 96C6 2?5 ;@:?65 E96 4@>>F?:EJ – E96? E96 72C>D H@?’E 36 23=6 E@ 4@?E:?F6[ z2AAFD D2:5]k^Am
Lettuce grows in a field at Becker Farms in Gasport. “We cannot ignore the fact that a broken immigration system has left both (farmworkers) and the farmers who rely on them in an impossible situation,” says State Sen. George Borrello.
Joed Viera photos, Buffalo News
kAm“u2C>6CD H@?’E 92G6 6?@F89 H@C<6CD E@ 92CG6DE E96:C 4C@AD[” z2AAFD D2:5] “*@F’C6 8@:?8 E@ 92G6 2 =@E =6DD 7@@5]”k^Am
kAmu2C>6CD H2?E 2 36EE6C DJDE6> E92E 2==@HD E96> E@ <66A E96 :>>:8C2?ED 6>A=@J65 @? E96:C 72C> 2?5[ :7 E96J’C6 96C6 :==682==J[ 96=A E96> 249:6G6 =682= DE2EFD]k^Am
kAmkDA2? 4=2DDlQAC:?E0EC:>Qm$E2E6 $6?]k^DA2?m q@CC6==@ H2?ED E@ 6IA2?5 2?5 DEC62>=:?6 E96 wap G:D2 AC@8C2>[ H9:49 96 42==65 “@G6C=J 4@>A=6I[ E:>6\4@?DF>:?8 2?5 4@DE=J]”k^Am
kAm“(6 ?665 2 =682=[ C6=:23=6 A2E9H2J 7@C 28C:4F=EFC2= 6>A=@J6CD E@ 3C:?8 :? G6EE65[ E6>A@C2CJ H@C<6CD :? 2 H2J E92E AC@E64ED 3@E9 ?2E:@?2= D64FC:EJ 2?5 @FC 7@@5 DFAA=J[” q@CC6==@ D2:5]k^Am
kAm“s@?’E E2<6 @FC H@C<6CD[” D2:5 E96 }:282C2 r@F?EJ 52:CJ 72C>6C] “v:G6 FD 2 DJDE6>]”k^Am
In this Series
Updated
Feb 25, 2026
Updated
Feb 25, 2026
Updated
Feb 25, 2026
26 updates
Satisfy your cravings
With our weekly newsletter packed with the latest in everything food.