Angola awaits
Explore the country's natural wonders, wildlife and waves
TRAVEL
Angola boasts some of the best waterfalls in Africa, spectacular deserts and all the wildlife you could wish for.
Head to the Kalandula Falls, a quarter-mile wide and more than 320 feet deep.
Or Kissama National Park for safaris to see elephants, giraffes and antelopes.
Don't miss the spectacular Namibe Desert landscape in the south, which Angola shares with neighboring Namibia.
Burdened by history, too, Angola is a former Portuguese colony that gained independence in 1975 after a lengthy struggle. Soon after, the nation plunged into a bloody civil war that raged until 2002.
Landmines remain a legacy of that conflict in parts of the country. Always heed red warning signs reading "Perigo Minas" if you are traveling overland. Authorities also warn people against driving off-road in mined areas.
This may be a place like no other to visit, though relatively few people come to stay.
Brutalism and colonial architecture
Oil-rich Angola is not a budget travel destination. The capital, Luanda, was once almost exclusively a destination for business travelers, and hotels are expensive.
It's this coastal city where most trips to Angola begin. A major new airport located about 30 miles outside the city opened last year to mark the 50th anniversary of the nation's independence.
You might be surprised as you drive from the airport to Luanda by wide, pothole-free roads, unlike in other, more tourist-friendly African countries.
The closer you get to the suburbs of this metropolis, the heavier the traffic becomes.
In downtown Luanda, Portuguese colonial architecture — partly lovingly restored, partly with a dilapidated charm — clashes with the brutalism of the country's socialist era, which lasted until the early 1990s.
Since then, Angola has increasingly embraced capitalism. Modern glass skyscrapers and towering office buildings reflect Luanda's dynamic transformation into a modern metropolis.
But you also can find plenty of makeshift market stalls selling fruit, vegetables or used clothing. Street vendors jostle for space at local bus stops, carrying trays of hard-boiled eggs or small bags of nuts balanced on their heads.
And you get a beach vibe during the drive along the Baia de Luanda. The view takes in the Atlantic beaches, which fill up with families, especially on weekends.
Slave trade and waves
Anyone seeking to flee the hustle and bustle of the big city need not go far. Life takes a leisurely pace on a cruise along the Kwanza River.
Several local tour companies offer 2to 8-hour excursions, which offer you a chance to spot countless bird species along the forested banks. If you are lucky, you might see monkeys in the treetops. All around, fishermen in flat canoes ply the river.
You can learn more about the area's history in Morro da Cruz, about an hour's drive south of Luanda. Head to the National Slavery Museum, which is surrounded by towering baobab trees.
While former slave forts in Ghana or Senegal focus on the slave trade from Africa to North America, Morro da Cruz provides information about the trade in slaves bound for plantations in Brazil and the Caribbean.
Part of the museum is a 17th-century chapel where slaves were baptized before their voyage. Heavy chains and whips on display are testament to the cruelty of colonial rulers and their local partners toward the enslaved people..
About 25 miles south of the museum, down toward the sea, lies the Miradouro da Lua, meaning "moon viewpoint." Under a full moon, the rugged, reddish-brown and ochre cliffs by the sea resemble the surface of the moon. This is a popular place for campers. It also is a turtle sanctuary, so hiking and climbing are prohibited.
Head along the coast to Cabo Ledo, home to one of Angola's most beautiful surfing beaches. The waves are sometimes too rough for swimming, but it's ideal for surfers seeking the perfect wave.
Not many tourists find their way here, but you can get a taste of local life by visiting small vacation resorts close to neighboring fishing villages.
Take a walk along the beach and watch fishermen mending their nets or preparing their boats. Women process the day's catch while kids play football on the beach or splash in the waves.


